The untold story behind one of motorcycling's most iconic photographs

Thanks to The Vintagent, I see that Mecum Auctions is selling off the “Roadog” motorcycle—one of two made—that had been on display at the soon-to-be-defunct National Motorcycle Museum in Anamosa, IA. That encouraged me to repost this story that I wrote about six years ago. (If you read it then, please indulge me. MG)

I can think of only two motorcycle photos that are permanently etched in the imaginations of non-motorcyclists: Rollie Free, setting a land-speed record in a borrowed bathing suit; and 'Wild Bill' Gelbke, astride 'Roadog' -- his home-made 17'-long, 3,280 pound motorcycle.

The photo of Bill Gelbke was taken in 1970, by a small-town newspaperman named Ralph Goldsmith. He was the editor and proprietor of the Bascobel (Wisconsin) Dial.

A few years ago, while I was writing a second edition of my Bathroom Book of Motorcycle Trivia, I decided to include a little section of four of five days'-worth of trivia about Gelbke and Roadog. On the spur of the moment I wondered what ever happened to the photographer, and whether he'd ever been compensated for the countless times his image was reproduced on posters, bar mirrors, in books and magazines, on t-shirts and God-knows-where-else. 

I did a web search for 'Ralph Goldsmith'. And while I was a few years too late to reach him, I did reach his son and namesake, who is himself already 60.

Ralph Jr. told me quite a story about the image, which is definitely a part of Goldsmith family lore.

"My dad got a call from a bartender, who worked on the edge of town," he told me. "He said, 'You've gotta' come and see this bike'."

Presumably Gelbke was on one of his many relatively aimless rides. (According to legend, he rode 20,000 miles in the first year after building Roadog. He'd grown up in Green Bay and had a shop on Cicero Avenue in Chicago, so I suppose Roadog was seen quite a bit on the roads of Wisconsin. And judging from what I've read about him, Wild Bill probably stopped at pretty much ever roadhouse.)

Anyway the newsman, Goldsmith Sr., hopped in his car, carrying his trusty 120 roll-film camera. Like all newspapermen of the period it was loaded with black and white film. Since the Bascobel Dial reproduced photos with an 85-line halftone screen, the 2 1/4 inch wide negative was already overkill; it was probably loaded with something like 400 ASA-rated Kodak Tri-X.

He got to the bar in time, and snapped a picture of Wild Bill Gelbke astride his monstrous bike. The photo ran in the next weekly edition of the 'Dial'.

Ralph Jr. told that some time later, his dad got a call about the photo. I didn't think to ask whether someone had seen it in the Dial, or whether (more likely) it went out on a wire service. Whatever the case might've been, Mr. Goldsmith thought that his image, having run in the Dial, had outlived any immediate utility. So without thinking anything of it, he put the only negative he had in an envelope and mailed it to the caller. He didn't ask for payment, specify one-time rights, or even bother to keep track of who he was sending to. 

His son told me that it was years before he realized that it had been reproduced and re-reproduced as a poster and in countless other ways. By then, it seemed impossible to track his negative back down. To make matters worse, the newspaper used a very impermanent printing process, so Goldsmith's print had faded and discolored.

Ralph Jr. told me that his dad had been an excellent photographer and that he remembered that the negative was pin-sharp; poster quality. I could tell from talking to him that the family had long realized that if only dad had kept that negative, they could have made a pretty penny from licensing fees.

Oh well. In everyone's life there has to be one great lost opportunity. Ralph Goldsmith's was the time he mailed off that useless negative to some faceless stranger.

Remembering Andrew Wheeler

I probably shouldn’t have been surprised this morning when news popped up in my Instagram feed to the effect that Andrew Wheeler was recently found dead in his Austin TX home. He was only 60, but had been experiencing health issues after a stroke and, of all things, a fucking spider bite.

From @wratbike on Instagram

Andrew was best-known as a MotoGP photographer. He attended most of the races—maybe even all of them—for quite a few years beginning in the early 2000s, shooting photos under contract for big-time sponsors.

His work was not typical fare because his perspectives were literally and figuratively different from most race photographers’. He shot from too close or too far, too high or too low, composing images that could be read as abstract art or landscapes first, and documentation of a motorcycle race or racer only a few seconds later.

I remember visiting him in Capitola. He brought up an image on his computer monitor that he was particularly pleased with. I think he’d shot it in Spain, but I don’t recall the race, year, or racer. Anyway, it was a spectacular skyscape; 95% of the frame was a cloud formation shot with an ultra-wide-angle lens. But sure enough, a band at the bottom of the frame grounded the composition and there was a MotoGP racer railing along there, towards the edge of the frame. The motorcycle couldn’t have occupied more than 0.05% of the total pixel count.

When he wasn’t traveling to races, he shot magazine stuff. We became friends over the course of collaborating on stories for Road Racer X magazine, where the editor, Chris Jonnum, appreciated the artful Wheeler. Andrew also illustrated stories I wrote for Bike (UK), and some stuff that I wrote for online pubs.

Andrew was probably the only MotoGP photographer who could understood why, while shooting a feature for Bike magazine in San Francisco, we’d stop at City Lights Bookstore.

He was an English émigré. He liked motorcycles and had ridden in England. But the impression that I had was that he’d essentially given up bikes after an incident in which he was beaten up by bike thieves.

UPDATE: After I wrote this, David Emmett (aka @motomatters) wrote that Andrew stopped riding after a very bad motorcycle crash involving a drunk driver. David’s recollections of Andrew are fresher than mine and I suspect he’s right and I’m wrong. I may have conflated another Andrew story which is very possible, because over and above my mists-of-time issues there was probably a lot of wine involved in the telling and listening. Friends of Andrew or anyone who wants to know him better after the fact should definitely also read David’s In Memoriam, on motomatters.com.

Years later, he got an Indian Scout which showed up frequently in his social media feed. That would have been a good machine for him as he was a bit, ah, vertically challenged. His physique, pleasant demeanor, gourmandise, and accent always put me in the mind of hobbits. He would have made a great hobbit. Although he no longer had the horse by the time I knew him, he had a beautiful German Shepherd named Thor that was equally close to his heart.

He loved to cook. He was good at it and loved being a host. He didn’t generally stay in hotels on the MotoGP circuit. Instead, he found AirBnB-type short-term rentals with kitchens. He flew in a few days early, shopped for local foods, and then spent evenings victualing other members of the MotoGP circus.

If he ever told me what he did before becoming a photographer, I don’t remember it. But I do remember how he became a photographer, and it had nothing to do with bikes. He and his then-wife Emily had a horse that foundered. This is a serious veterinary crisis for a horse that usually results in them being euthanized.

They couldn’t bear to put their horse down; the treatment involved being with the horse around the clock for months, ensuring that it did not put weight on the affected hoof. To kill time in the barn, Andrew began taking photos of horses. They were good, and he either got or was given the idea of becoming a professional photographer. On a whim, he attended a car race at Laguna Seca, which was nearby. When those images came out surprisingly well, he was off to the races. (Sorry, I can’t help myself.)

Emily died in 2014 after a grueling, drawn-out, and public fight with cancer. She had her own career (I think she was an ESL teacher) but she often accompanied Andrew to races where she sat in the press room cataloging images as he shot them. Everyone in MotoGP knew she was sick. She loved Valentino Rossi and at one point Andrew took a picture of Rossi holding a sign that read, “Get well Emily.” Number 46 might have been, “The Doctor” but he had no cure.

This is a mark of how much those two were appreciated in the MotoGP paddock: when Andrew could not attend races because he had to stay home and care for her, other photographers took pictures on Andrew’s behalf and uploaded them to his site, so that he could fulfill his contracts with sponsors.

Before she died, she wrote forthrightly about another struggle, with depression, that had long predated her cancer. I always sensed an undercurrent of melancholy in Andrew, too. It would be a cliché to describe that as common amongst creative people, I guess. But most clichés are clichés because there’s an element of truth to them.

Andrew wrote that the last thing she said to him was, “We’re both going to be OK, OK?” The better part of a decade later, I cannot think of that sentence without choking up.

As I was looking through some old emails to find a few of his photos, I came across one from 2008 in which he wrote, out of the blue…

You know, life is too short sometimes not to say how you feel....

Emily and I live by this rule, sometimes it's not always want you want to hear but other times it's exactly what you want to hear.

All I want to say is I'm glad and extremely happy that we met, and that we could possibly do some seriously good work together. 

I think we kind’a did.

I rarely saw him after I moved to Kansas City although we traded emails and messages for a while, and I kept track of him on Twitter and Instagram. I don’t know if he ever remarried but I know he dated. I guess he rebounded as well as he could as we gradually fell out of touch.

I didn’t realize that he’d relocated to Austin, and only learned of his recent stroke when I caught a random Instagram post about it. He wasn’t quite old enough to qualify for Medicare and as far as I know had always been a freelancer; I doubt if he had anything resembling meaningful health or disability insurance. When the stroke left him partially paralyzed and off-balance, he put up a GoFundMe. That sucks.

Andrew’s death was reported to authorities by a friend, Rachel Wilkens (aka “Rocky Wingwalker” and @wratbike on IG). By the sound of things, she was basically doing a welfare check on poor Andrew. His pets were incredibly dear to him and he would be relieved to know that she rescued Widget, his cat.

I’ll leave the last word to her. She posted this on Instagram:

It is with a huge amount of sadness and the heaviest heart I have to inform our friends and loved ones of Andrew’s passing.

Andrew was the kindest and sweetest man and he was my best friend. I found him this morning in his home.

To the best of our knowledge and abilities to reconstruct the timeline, Andrew passed sometime between Monday and Wednesday.

Please understand that we believe this was due to his ongoing medical issues following the move to Texas and the subsequent spider bite that plagued him horribly. The struggle for him to regain balance was insurmountable but he was trying until the end to hang on and get through it regardless.

All the arrangements are tbd. I’m in contact w the lovely Rebecca and Deborah. I suggest that no additional Go-Fund Me donations are made as we may not be able to access them. Another opportunity will be provided soon should you wish to contribute but we are just now sorting things out.

Andrew is with his beloved Emily now.

A stylin’ pic of another notably nice guy, Jake Zemke, that Andrew shot at Monza WSBK in 2009.

The real ‘Wild Ones’

the true story of the 1947 Hollister Motorcycle Riot

On July 4, 1947, 4,000 ‘straight-pipers’ rode into Hollister. Their plan was to spend the long weekend partying and watching the races, but the partying got a little out of control. Even the local police admitted that the bikers "did more harm to themselves than they did to the town" but the press blew the story out of proportion. When the events were dramatized by Hollywood in ‘The Wild One’, America’s image of motorcycling changed forever. 

These interviews were conducted in late 1998, when I realized that the witnesses who’d been old enough to understand what they’d seen that weekend were dying of old age. I can’t remember who I reached first, but every time I found a witness, I asked them who else was still around. Over a period of a few weeks, I found and interviewed nine eyewitnesses to the events which became known as the Hollister ‘motorcycle riot’. 

Excerpts of these interviews were first published in Classic Bike, in 1999. 

See that guy standing in the background? I interviewed him.

At the end of World War II, the central California town of Hollister had a population of about 4,500. The gently rolling farmland surrounding the community was well-suited to motorcycle riding; there were facilities for scrambles, hillclimbs, and dirt-track racing at Bolado Park (about 10 miles away) and at Memorial Park, on the outskirts of town.

Through the 1930s, Hollister had been the site of popular races sanctioned by the American Motorcyclist Association, and promoted by the Salinas Scramblers [correction ‘Ramblers’—MG]. Spectators rode in on A.M.A.-organized ‘Gypsy Tours’, and as attendances grew, the Memorial Day races became as important to Hollister as the livestock fair or the rodeo.

Racing was postponed after America’s belated entrance into the war. When it was organized again for 1947, local merchants welcomed a major source of revenue back to the Hollister economy.

When peace broke out, many American servicemen were demobilized in California, and settled there. As soldiers, they had earned regular pay, but found little to spend it on. In sunny California, with extra money on hand, they did the same thing any Classic Bike reader would do. Then, when they were spent, they bought motorcycles with the dough left over.

The veterans formed hundreds of small motorcycle clubs with names like the ‘Jackrabbits’, ‘13 Rebels’, and ‘Yellow Jackets’. Members wore club sweaters; rode, drank and partied together; and organized informal motorcycle ‘field meets’. There was no sense of territoriality, or inter-club rivalry.

The A.M.A. realized that the war had exposed many Americans to motorcycles; veterans came back with experiences of Harley Davidson’s WA45. Back home, shortages of metals and fuels had encouraged people to ride instead of drive. Eager to keep these new riders, the A.M.A. sanctioned competitions and organized Gypsy Tours with renewed enthusiasm.

The army, however, is not a particularly good place to acquire social graces. The new motorcyclists drank harder, and were more rambunctious than the riders who had come to Hollister before the war.

Beginning Friday morning, thousands of motorcyclists poured into town. They came down from San Francisco, up from L.A. and San Diego, and from as far away as Florida and Connecticut. By evening, San Benito Street was choked with motorcycles. Eager to prevent the locals from straying into the crowd, the seven-man Hollister Police Department set up road blocks at either end of the main street.

At first, the 21(!) bars and taverns in Hollister welcomed the bikers with open arms. It was a good joke when motorcycles were ridden right into several taverns. But the bar owners quickly realized that the crowd required no extra encouragement. Taking the advice of the police, bartenders agreed to close two hours earlier than normal. A halfhearted attempt was made to stop serving beer, on the theory that the bikers probably couldn’t afford hard liquor.

From late Friday afternoon to early Sunday morning, the overwhelmed Hollister police (and many bemused residents) watched the ‘straight pipers’ stage drunken drags; wheelie and burnout displays; and impromptu relay races right on the main street. Most of them ignored the sanctioned races going on at Memorial Park.

In total, 50-60 bikers were treated for injuries at the local hospital. About the same number were arrested. They were charged with misdemeanors: public drunkeness, disorderly conduct, and reckless driving. Most were held for only a few hours. No one was killed or raped; there was no destruction of property, no arson, or looting; no locals suffered any harm at all.

On Sunday, 40 California Highway Patrol officers arrived with a show of force and threats of tear gas. The bikers scattered, and returned to their jobs.

The San Francisco Chronicle ran breathless accounts of Hollister’s wild weekend. While they didn’t technically lie, the stories carried sensational headlines like "Havoc in Hollister", and "Riots... Cyclists Take Over Town". The A.M.A.’s public-relations nightmare got even worse two weeks later when Life ran a full page photo of a beefy drunkard, swaying atop a Harley, with a beer in each hand.

As time goes by, it becomes harder to separate the Hollister myths from reality. It couldn’t have been too bad, because the town agreed to allow the A.M.A. and the Salinas Scramblers to promote motorcycle races again just five months later. Local bartenders welcomed the bikers (and their wallets) once more.

The community was the calm at the eye of a national storm. Hollister, which had actually experienced the ‘riot’, was ready to have the bikers back; meanwhile towns across the U.S. which had only read the press coverage, cancelled race meetings. Police departments also fostered the notion that roving bands of ruthless motorcycle hoodlums might descend on their towns at any moment. This worked especially well at budget time.

When Hollywood dramatized the Hollister weekend in the 1954 film The Wild One, any hope of salvaging motorcycling’s image was lost. At best, it showed bikers as drunken misfits; at worst, sociopaths. The movie’s only redeeming scene comes when a ride on Brando’s Triumph weakens the resolve of a beautiful, but chaste, young woman. If only that were true.

Ironically, the sensational media coverage of Hollister helped to spawn truly criminal ‘outlaw’ bike gangs. Once the public fear of motorcyclists reached a fever pitch, bikes held irresistable appeal for genuine sociopaths. A few predators formed clubs, and were egged on by wildly exagerated media portrayals of biker crime. By the 1960s, clubs like the Hell’s Angels made Marlon Brando look like, well, Marlon Brando. The A.M.A. has been fighting a public relations rearguard action ever since.

Me on a rented Harley, channeling my inner Lee Marvin. (Brando rode a Triumph; Marvin a Harley)
Image: This is arguably the most mundane motorcycle photo ever taken by Andrew Wheeler.

Eyewitnesses

Bertis ‘Bert’ Lanning was 37 years old when the ‘47 Gypsy tour rode into Hollister. As a mechanic in a local garage, he had direct contact with many of the bikers involved.

"I worked in Hollister, at Bernie Sevenman’s Tire Shop, right on the main street. I had motorcycles myself, a Harley ‘45, and a Triumph. I’m 88 now and my eyes aren’t good enough to ride anymore, but I’ve still got a bike in my garage!There was a mess of ‘em. Back then, beer always came in bottles, and there were quite few of them broken in the streets, so the bikers were getting flat tires. They’d bring them into the shop, either to get them fixed, or they’d want to fix them themselves.

Eventually it got so crowded in and around the shop that guys were fixing tires out in the street, running in and out to borrow tools. Maybe a couple of tools went missing. Anyway, my boss got nervous and told me to close up the shop. I thought that was great, because I wanted to get out there myself.

Main Street was packed, but it wasn’t nearly as bad as the papers said. There was a bunch of guys up on the second floor of the hotel, throwing water balloons. I didn’t see any fighting or anything like that. I enjoyed it. Some people just don’t like motorcycles, I guess."

Bob Yant owned an appliance store on Hollister’s main street. Back then, appliances were built to last, and so was Bob: He still works at the store every day.

"In 1947, I had just bought into my Dad’s electrical contracting and appliance business. We had a store right on San Benito (street). There were motorcyclists everywhere; they were sleeping in the orchards.Our store was open that Saturday. Guys were riding up and down Main Street, doing wheelies. The street was full of bikes, and the sidewalks were crowded with local people that had come down to look. Actually, it was bad for my business; my customers couldn’t get to the store. It was so slow that I left early, and let my employee lock up.

On Sunday, I went to the hospital, to visit a friend. There were a bunch of guys injured, on gurneys in the hallway, but I think they were mostly racers. There must’ve been about 15 of them, which was quite a sight in such a small hospital.There was no looting or anything; I was never afraid during the weekend. You know we had a few little hassles even when the motorcyclists weren’t in town. I think some guy rode a bike into ‘Walt’s Club’ (a bar) or something, and somebody panicked. The Highway Patrol came en masse and cleared everybody out.

The day after everyone had left, near my store, there were two guys taking a photograph. They brought a bunch of empty beer bottles out of a bar, and put them all round a motorcycle, and put a guy on it. I’m sure that’s how it was taken, because they wanted to get high up to take the shot, and they borrowed a ladder from me. That photo appeared on the cover of Life magazine. (Author’s note: I do not think that Life ever ran the Hollister story on the cover.)

Not long after that, they turned the little racetrack into a ballpark."

Catherine Dabo and her husband owned the best hotel in Hollister. When bikers were being demonized in the media, she always defended them.

"My husband and I owned the hotel, which also had a restaurant and bar. It was the first big rally after the war. Our bar was forty feet long, and a biker rode in the door of the bar, all along the bar, and through the doors into the hotel lobby!We were totally booked. Every room was full, and we had people sleeping in the halls, in the lobby, but they were great people; we had more trouble on some regular weekends!

I was never scared; if you like people, they like you. Maybe if you try telling them what to do, then look out!The motorcycles were parked on the streets like sardines! I couldn’t believe how pretty some of them were.

I was great for our business; it gave us the money we needed to pay our debts, and our taxes. they all paid for their rooms, their food, their drinks.

They (the press) blew that up more than it was. I didn’t even know anything had happened until I read the San Fransisco papers. The town was small enough that if there had been a riot anywhere, I’d have known about it! I had three young children, we just lived a few blocks away, and I was never scared for them.

I think the races were on again in ‘51. My husband and I always stood up for the bikers; they were good people."

Gil Armas still rides a 1947 Harley ‘Knucklehead’. He competed in dirt track events, and later sponsored a number of speedway riders.

"Back then, I was a hod carrier; I worked for a plastering outfit in L.A.. I had a ‘36 Harley, and rode with the Boozefighters. We used to hang out at the ‘All American’ bar at Firestone and Central. Lots of motorcycle clubs hung out there, including the 13 Rebels, and the Jackrabbits.Basically, we just went out on rides. Some of us went racing, or did field meets, where there events like relays, drags; there was an event called ‘missing out’ where you’d all start in a big circle, and if you got passed, you were out.

At first, most of our racing was ‘outlaw’ races that we organized ourselves, but a few years later, a lot of us went professional, and raced in (A.M.A.-sanctioned) half miles and miles. I retired (from racing) in ‘53.

I just went out to Hollister for the ride. A couple of my friends were racing. My bike was all apart, and I threw it on a trailer and towed it up there; I didn’t want to miss out on the fun. I ended up sleeping in the car.We started partying. There were so many motorcycles there that the police blocked off the road. In fact, they sort of joined in. There were four of them in a jeep. We sort of had a tug-of-war, with us pushing it one way, and them pushing it the other. Tempers flared a little when somebody stole a cop’s hat, but it all blew over. There was racing in the street, some stuff like that, but the cops had it under control.

Later on, the papers were telling stories like we broke a bunch of guys out of jail, but nothing like that happened at all. There were a couple of arrests, basically for drunk-and-disorderly; all we did was go down and bail them out. In fact, a few of the clubs tried to force the papers to print a retraction. They did write a retraction, but it was so small you’d never see it.

The bar owners were standing out front of the bars saying ‘Bring your bike in!’. They put mine right up on the bar.

On Sunday, the cops came back with riot guns, and told us all to pack up and leave. At first, we just sat on the curb and laughed at them, because there was no riot going on, but we all left anyway.In those days, if you rode a motorcycle, then anybody that rode a motorcycle was your buddy. We (Boozefighters) were just into throwing parties."

August ‘Gus’ Deserpa lived in Hollister. He is the smiling young man seen in the background of the famous ‘Life Magazine’ photo.  

"I was projectionist by trade. I worked at the Granada Theater, which was on the corner of Seventh and San Benito. I would have got off work around 11 p.m.. My wife came to pick me up, and we decided to walk up Main Street to see what was going on. I saw two guys scraping all these bottles together, that had been lying in the street. Then they positioned a motorcycle in the middle of the pile.

After a while this drunk guy comes staggering out of the bar, and they got him to sit on the motorcycle, and started to take his picture.I thought ‘That isn’t right’, and I got around against the wall, where I’d be in the picture, thinking that they wouldn’t take it if someone else was in there. But they did anyway. A few days later the papers came out and I was right there in the background.

They weren’t doing anything bad, just riding up and down whooping and hollering; not really doing any harm at all."

Marylou Williams and her husband owned a drug store on Hollister’s main street.

"My husband and I owned the Hollister Pharmacy, which was right next door to Johnny’s Bar, on Main Street. We went upstairs in the Elks Building, to watch the goings-on in the street. I remember that the sidewalks were so crowded that we had to squeeze right along the wall of the building.Up on the second floor of the Elks Building, they had some small balconies. They were too small to step out onto, but you could lean out and get a good view of the street. I brought my kids along; I had two daughters. They were about 8 and 4 at the time. It never occurred to me to be worried about their safety. We saw them riding up and down the street, but that was about all; when the rodeo was in town, the cowboys were as bad."

Harry Hill is a retired Colonel, USAF. He was in visiting his parents in Hollister during the 1947 riots.

"I was in the Service then, but I was home for the long weekend. Hollister was a farming community back then. The population was about 4,500 or so. Now it’s a bedroom community for Silicon Valley, and the population is about 20,000.Before the war, they had motorcycle races out at Bolado Park, about 10 miles southeast of town. I believe the big event was a 100-mile cross country race.

Back then, the AMA had a thing called a Gypsy Tour; people would come from all over on motorcycles. Besides the races there were other contests: precision riding, decorating motorcycles.I liked motorcycles; I started riding in about 1930, and at different times had both Harleys and Indians. I stopped riding when I enlisted in the Air Force, in about ‘41, so my bikes were old ‘tank shift’ types.

Back then, the race weekend wasn’t necessarily the biggest thing in town, but it was as big as the rodeo, or the saddle horse show. It seems to me that there were always two or three people killed during those weekends; people racing, and riding drunk, but things changed after the war; they got a lot rowdier.

In ‘47, I was still on active duty. I guess I was quite a bit more disciplined than the average biker that rode in that weekend. It was such a madhouse; my parents were elderly, too, and I didn’t feel it was right to leave them alone, so I stayed around the house. I sure heard it, though.

On Sunday, I took a look around. It was a mess, but there was no real evidence of any physical damage; no fires, or anything like that.

There seemed to a be a lot more drinking going on when the motorcycle boys were in town, than when the cowboys were in town. When the motorcycle boys got rowdy, we used to say ‘Turn the cowboys loose on ‘em!’.

Years later, I started riding again. Frankly, I was worried about the image we had as motorcyclists: the Hell’s Angels, the booze, the whores... (motorcycling’s) reputation got real bad. And there continued to be bad publicity at places like Bass Lake, where there was a big annual biker gathering. But I rode because I loved it. My last bikes were a Kawasaki Mach III in the seventies, and a Kawasaki 1000, which I sold in 1990."

Jim Cameron is still a motorcycle racer, riding a Jeff Smith-built BSA Gold Star in vintage motocross events. "Because of my age," he laughs, "AHRMA will only let me compete in the ‘Novice’ class!"

"I was a Boozefighter. The Boozefighters were formed a year or so earlier. Wino Willie had been a member of the Compton Roughriders. They had gone to an AMA race, a dirt track, in San Diego. In between heats, Willie, he’d been drinking, of course, started up his bike and rode a few laps around the track, just for laughs. Eventually they got him flagged off.

The Roughriders sort of kicked him out of the club for that; they felt he had embarrassed them.Willie decided that if they couldn’t see the humor in that, he’d start his own club. Back then a bunch of us hung out at a bar in South L.A., called the All American. Several clubs met there: the 13 Rebels, the Yellowjackets, anyway, Willie was talking to some other guy about what to name the club, and there was an old drunk listening in. This old drunk pipes up "Why don’t you call yourselves the ‘Boozefighters’.

Willie thought that was funny as hell, so that was the name.The name Boozefighters was misleading, we didn’t do any fighting at all. It was hard to get in; you had to come to five meetings, then there was a vote, and if you got one blackball, you were out. We wore green and white sweaters with a beer bottle on the front and ‘Boozefighters’ on the back.

Back then, I was 23 or 24 I guess, I had just come out of the Air Force. I’d been in the Pacific, but Willie and some of the others had been paratroopers over in Europe. They’d had it pretty rough in the war. I had an Indian Scout, and a Harley ‘45 that I used as a messenger.

Back then, the AMA organized these ‘Gypsy Tours’. One was going up to Hollister on the Independence Day weekend. That sounded good, so a bunch of us decided to ride up there.

We left L.A. Thursday night, and rode through the night. I think my Scout only went about 55 miles an hour, so it took quite a while. I think we rode until we were exhausted, and stopped to sleep for a few hours in King City. It was about 6 a.m. when I woke up. It was pretty cold, and when the liquor store opened, I bought a bottle, which I drank to try to get warm. Then I rode on in Hollister.It was about 8:30 a.m. on Friday morning when I arrived there.

I was riding up the street, and I see this guy, another Boozefighter come out of a bar, and he yells ‘Come on in!’. So I rode my bike right into the bar. The owner was there, and he didn’t seem to mind at all. He could see I was already pretty drunk, so he wanted to take my keys; he didn’t think I should go riding in my condition. The Indian didn’t need a key to start it, but I left it there in the bar the whole weekend.

I don’t think there were more than maybe 7 of us from the L.A. Boozefighters there. There were some guys from the ‘Frisco Boozefighters, too. One of our guys had a ‘36 Cadillac. He used that to tow up our trailer. We had a trailer with maybe fifteen or sixteen bunks in it; stacked three high on both sides. Basically, we’d drink and party until we crapped out, then we’d go in there and sleep it off.

They claimed there were about 3,000 guys there. I think most of them went out to the dirt track races outside of town, but we didn’t. We were having fun right there. The street was lined with motorcycles, and the cops had blocked it off. Basically, guys were just showing off; drag racing, doing power circles, seeing how many people they could put on one bike, and we were just watching and laughing.

The leader of the ‘Frisco Boozefighters was a guy we called Kokomo. He was up in the second or third floor window of the hotel, where there was a telephone wire that went out across the street. He was wearing a crazy red uniform, like a circus clown, and he was standing in the window pretending like he was going to step out onto the wire, like a tightrope walker. It was funny as hell.

There were a couple of cops there, but they were playing it cool. Basically, they didn’t arrest anybody unless they did something to deserve it. The one Boozefighter I can think of that got arrested was a ‘Frisco guy. Some of them had come down in a Model T Ford. It was overheating, and while they were driving down the street, he was trying to piss into the radiator. Anyway, they arrested him, and Wino Willie went down to try to get him out; he was pretty drunk at the time, so they arrested him, too. But they let them both out after a few hours.

Around Saturday night I started to sober up. After all, I had to ride home on Sunday. I guess I, got my bike out of the bar and headed home at about 4 p.m. on Sunday. It definitely wasn’t as big a deal as the papers made it out to be."

John Lomanto owned a farm a few miles from Hollister. He was an avid motorcyclist, and a well-known local racer.

"I worked with my father on our farm, which was just a few miles from Hollister. We grew walnuts, apricots, and prunes. I had a ‘41 Harley, and was one of the original members of the Hollister Top Hatters Motorcycle Club. In fact, the first few meetings were held in one of our barns, but later on we rented a clubhouse in downtown Hollister. We met three times month. We were a real club, with a President, a Secretary, a Treasurer, and all that. Our wives came, too. Our uniform was a yellow sweater with red sleeves.

There were a few races going on that weekend; I think there was a 1/2 mile race, and a TT. I didn’t go to the races, but I rode my bike downtown.It was pretty exciting. The main street was blocked off, and the whole town was motorcycles all over the place. Everybody had a beer in their hand; I can’t say there weren’t a few drunks, but there was no real fighting.”

Hollister Redux

About ten years later, Bike Magazine asked me to write a feature on Hollister, and while I was visiting the town, another witness surfaced...

The riot took place 75 years ago. I did my original research, interviewing about a dozen eyewitnesses, almost 25 years ago, and even then it was hard to separate the witnesses’ genuine memories from tales they’d told and retold, or read. I hardly expected anything new to come to light when I returned to Hollister in 2008.

I was surprised to find one more eyewitness, ex-racer Ted Ponton.

I was pleasantly surprised when the Salinas Ramblers MC’s Charlotte Gomes sent me an email pointing out that her club’s oldest member, Ted Ponton, had been in Hollister on that famous weekend. I called Mr. Ponton, who despite being well into his ‘80s, still works every day in his glass shop in Salinas, and still rides.

I went to see him in his shop. The walls were covered with the memorabilia of a remarkable life on two wheels. Being present at the Hollister riot was just one of his stories. He also rode a ‘67 Bonneville to Alaska, and chaperoned a teenaged Doug Chandler when he first started racing on the AMA Grand National Championship circuit. The old man was cool.

The Ramblers (I called them the “Scramblers” in earlier reports) promoted the half-mile flat track race at Hollister, which was expected to be one of the highlights of the 1947 AMA “Gypsy Tour” on that July 4 weekend. 

I already knew there had been racing scheduled as part of the event. I knew that there had been a hillclimb a few miles out of town at Bolado Park (the rut they used to race up has long since been overgrown with brush, but it’s still a faintly visible scar on one of the bluffs.) And I knew that races were held in Hollister within a few years, which I always took as proof that the riot had not been that bad.

Talking to Ted, I realized that the half-mile had been held the day after the riot had been quelled. About 3,000 people had attended, netting the Ramblers about $3,000, which was good money in the day. He told me the races had been held at Memorial Park, which had then been on the outskirts of town. “It was a berm track,” he said “and you can still see the berm.”

Hollister’s ten times the size it was in ‘47. Veteran’s Memorial Park is now surrounded by suburbs. What used to be the flat track is now ball diamonds, although the berm is indeed still visible at one end. It was steeply banked, which accounted for the fast, 80mph lap speeds.

Although the thunder of racing motorcycles has been replaced by the sound of aluminum bats hitting baseballs, Hollister’s still a pretty bike-friendly town. There are a couple of metric dealerships, doing a good business thanks to the nearby offroad vehicle recreation area. There are a few chopper shops, too. And several gaudy, biker-themed murals.

I stopped to photograph one of them, on the wall of a bar called “Johnny’s” on San Benito Street. It’s right in the middle of the strip where the “riot” took place. I heard some drunk, inside, slurring something about “I’ll break that camera.” Then two fat broads walked out. One of them made a hand gesture that was either some kind of white-trash gang sign, or she was just trying to give me the finger but was too drunk to select the appropriate digit. I got the feeling that, in that bar, they were still desperate to live the “persecuted biker” myth.

That didn’t really jibe with the Corbin-sponsored, printed vinyl banners on every streetlamp, proudly describing Hollister as the “birthplace of the American biker.” 

I got a friendlier greeting at the Hollister Evening Freelance. A reporter went into the archive and came out with a big, leather-bound volume of their 1947 issues. 

I flipped brittle, yellowed pages to find Monday, July 7. The coverage included a detailed list of arrests:

  • Drunkenness-22

  • Disturbing the peace-9

  • Drunk driving-6

  • Reckless driving-2

  • Miscellaneous-10 (everything from vagrancy to indecent exposure—the latter charge probably relating to the radiator-pissing incident.)

Hazel Hawkins Hospital admitted 50 injured people. Three of them suffered “serious” wounds: one compound fracture to a spectator run over by a stunting motorcycle; one concussion; one foot “almost severed.” 

The Freelance devoted almost as much space to other newspapers’ coverage of the riot as it did to the riot itself. Local reporters noted—with barely concealed satisfaction—that they’d been pestered by phone calls from out-of-town media all weekend. 

So where did all that leave the famous Hollister riot? Ironically, the sensational media coverage of Hollister helped to spawn truly criminal outlaw bike gangs. 

It wasn’t until the ‘70s that motorcycling was finally redeemed in the public eye. “You meet the nicest people on a Honda” became a memorable ad slogan. Then in the ‘80s, Harley-Davidson’s ad agency, Carmichael-Lynch, pulled off a coup by redeeming the outlaw biker image itself, and co-opting it as a marketing position. Somewhere in there, the myth of the Hollister riot did a complete 180. Motorcyclists spread the idea that nothing had happened at all; that it had been a complete fabrication by yellow journalists.

There were dozens of arrests and injuries, OK? Something happened. But it doesn’t matter anyway. This is America; our history is spun by ad agencies and PR firms. Was Hollister the birthplace of the American biker? No. The birthplace of the American biker myth? Maybe. Is the town’s Chamber of Commerce eager to promote an annual gathering every July, for thousands of biker wannabees? Definitely.

I was happy to ride out of town before they arrived.

RIP Sonny Barger? Hardly.

The longtime leader of the Hells Angels, Ralph “Sonny” Barger recently died, becoming one of the few famous motorcyclists to earn an obituary in the New York Times. That prompted me to resurrect this post, from an older blog, about an interesting sidebar to the Hells Angels’, and Barger’s, stories.

In the course of researching my second triviabook, I stumbled across a bunch of stories that made me think, How has it taken me this long to learn about this? One was the story of NASA’s ‘space minibikes’. Another was related to the Hells Angels and Vietnam. Of course, I already knew that Sonny Barger had volunteered a biker force for duty behind the lines in Vietnam. But I did not realize there actually was a military unit known as Nams Angels. Here’s their story…

A little over fifty years ago, Ralph ‘Sonny’ Barger – the president of the Oakland chapter of the Hells Angels – volunteered his gang for duty in Vietnam.

Barger reading his telegram to LBJ. (*Although it’s often suggested that he spelled ‘guerrilla’ as ‘gorilla’, I’ve never seen a printed copy of the text, so I transcribed it correctly. He meant guerrilla; he was not offering himself as a breeder and trainer of actual apes.)

The press conference, which was held on November 19, 1965, featured Barger and four of his ‘associates’. It was held in the storefront office of Dorothy Connors Bail Bonds. You can follow this link to watch KRON-TV’s report. The journalist who introduces the report can scarcely conceal his own disbelief. The segment opens with footage of an earlier, undated confrontation between Hells Angels and anti-war protesters.

In the fall of 1965, Americans were still not used to big, unruly war protests; those would come later. Until the marchers reached the Hells Angels, things seem to have been generally peaceful. TV footage portrays a fairly cooperative and respectful relationship between thousands of mostly draft-age protesters and an approachable police presence that is positively quaint, compared to what we’d see today.

In fedora: Oakland police chief Edward Toothman. Below: Barger screams at antiwar protesters.

That ended when Barger started screaming, “Why don’t you people go home, you pacifists!” A cop in standard uniform pushed an Angel back, ordering him to “Back off” and a moment later a 300-pound biker known as ‘Tiny’ was cracked on the skull with a nightstick. Ironically the only police injury occurred when that huge dude slumped to the pavement, breaking a cop’s leg on the way down.

Barger’s often described as a ‘veteran’, which is consistent with the ür-myth of soldiers returning from war and forming motorcycle gangs. The truth is a little more prosaic; Sonny did join the army, but was honorably discharged after a few months when they realized he was actually only 17.

Hunter S. Thompson noted that the march organizers – a loose group of student leftists led by Jerry Rubin – hoped to find kindred spirits in the bikers. But that was not to be; the Angels may have been disenfranchised too, but they were unquestioningly patriotic.

All of which led to the surreal press conference in which Barger announced that the Hells Angels would not attend the VDC march scheduled for November 21, because he was sure that those pacifists would provoke the bikers to violence, which would in turn encourage the public to place its misguided sympathies with the protesters.

“We haven’t been told to do nothin’. This is our own decision. We think it’s best for the country,” said Barger. When asked what the Angels would do instead, Barger added, “We’ll do what we usually do on a Saturday; probably go to the bar and drink a few suds.”

A reporter, perhaps thinking that outlaw bikers – outcasts themselves – would make natural allies with student radicals, asked Barger whether, while he disagreed with the students’ position, he at least defended their right to free speech and assembly. But he literally waved off the question; he never took the bait. (Barger, still in his 20s at the time, comes across as alternately media savvy and, at other moments, hopelessly naïve.)

Barger then read a telegram that he claimed to have sent Lyndon Johnson…

Dear Mr. President,

On behalf of myself and my associates I volunteer a group of loyal Americans for behind-the-lines duty in Vietnam. We feel that a crack group of trained guerrillas* will demoralize the Viet Cong and advance the cause of freedom. We are available for training and duty immediately.

Sincerely,

Ralph Barger

Hells Angels, Oakland CA

If LBJ ever saw the telegram, he certainly didn’t take Barger up on the offer. But ironically, within a few years, there actually was small group of biker-warriors taking the fight to the Viet Cong.

Helmet? Check. Sleeveless biker vest? Check. The only color image I’ve ever found of the Nams Angels.

Left to right: Dennis Verbrigghe (Rock City, MI), James Linder (Indianapolis), Scott Anderson (Balsin Lake, WI), James Tomusco (Lorain, OH). [Are any of these guys still riding? If any readers have information about these men, please contact me – MG]

Maybe those CB175s lacked the intimidation factor of the Hells Angels' Harleys, but there's something about being backed up by Jeep with a belt-fed machine gun. Brady F. Rosemeyer (Bishop, CA) handles the belt while Ron Jones (Bath, ME) fires the M-60. These guys provided the backup for the Angels on patrol.

So who were the real Nams Angels? The Recon Patrol of the 3rd Battalion, 22nd Infantry, U.S. Army.

In 1969, the 3-22nd’s area of operations was War Zone C, up on the Cambodian border. It was 1,000 square kilometers of marsh and jungle, crisscrossed by a maze of small trails, that served as a hideout and staging area for Viet Cong guerrillas.

The U.S. Army set up camps in there to interdict that activity, and those camps became targets themselves, of VC hit-and-run mortar and rocket attacks.

The commander of 3rd Battalion, Lieutenant-Colonel Robert Carmichael, seized upon the idea of using motorcycles as a way for reconnaissance patrols to cover more ground – identifying VC mortar sites, for example.

Carmichael acquired at least four motorcycles, which appear to be pretty much bone-stock Honda CB175 street bikes. Patrols rode out at dawn. I imagine that Sonny Barger would’ve scoffed at those 175cc rice burners – they were hardly intimidating enough for Hells Angels. But the four bikes had a chase vehicle, which was a Jeep with a mounted M-60.

Further up the chain of command, they were skeptical – but not for long. "At first I was very leery of the whole idea, but now I am confident it was a good one," said Major Joseph Hacia.

I love the idea of four guys – some likely were draftees – who were probably a lot happier to ride those CB175s than they would’a been patrolling on foot. I don’t know how long the 3-22nd’s motorcycle patrols went on, but they were around long enough for those guys to get patched.

Which brings me back to the Hells Angels. I’ve always thought of Barger’s offer – which was almost certainly a publicity stunt, but one that reflected his own genuinely-held views – as one of the first instances of a phenomenon that’s now common: Disenfranchised groups that one might expect to be anti-establishment, but which instead adopt militant patriotism.

Ironically, at the same time as the real Nams Angels were patrolling War Zone C, a bikesploitation movie was being filmed in Thailand, called ‘Nams Angels’. It was obviously inspired by Barger’s offer to fight behind enemy lines. By the time it was released, they’d changed the name to ‘The Losers’.

I mean, really… The Hells Angels were persecuted by the cops, vilified in the media, and completely ostracized by conservative, mainstream America. And yet they were violently opposed to the student radicals that wanted to stick it to The Man. It seemed that the old saying, “The enemy of my enemy is my friend” no longer held true.

There may be a lesson in reconciliation in all of this.

A few weeks after that press conference, the beat novelist Ken Kesey organized a meeting. A delegation of anti-war protesters came to Barger’s house, where they all dropped acid. Although Barger never really changed his rhetoric, the bikers and the protesters maintained an uneasy truce for the remainder of the Vietnam war.

Like the real Hells Angels, the Nams Angels patch eschewed the apostrophe. Hilariously, when some grammarian once asked why there was no apostrophe in “Hells”, a biker replied, “Maybe there’s more than one hell.”

Lessons learned

Racing motorcycles is a good way to learn things about yourself – including things that are hard to learn in otherwise-civilized society. EG: “Can I keep my cool in a situation where there’s a very real risk of being maimed or killed?”

Not me. Alvaro Bautista. But if this—ahem—rings a bell, you’ll probably agree with the life lesson described below.

But the lesson I look back upon most isn’t about who I am inside. It’s about the stuff that happens outside our control.

You see, you can be in a very good situation in a motorcycle race. Say, running in third watching the fight between first and second, while preventing the guy in fourth from taking your position.

Are you with me so far? Imagine you’re watching your six but also biding your time; with a few laps to go, there’s no sense trying a risky pass when, if you’re just patient, those guys ahead of you might take each other out. To the extent there’s ever really a plan, things are going according to it. You’re riding your race, on your line, at your pace and rhythm.

Then some minor thing happens. Not a major thing; not a guy right in front of you losing his engine and spewing oil all over a gnarly braking zone. A minor thing; something expectable.

Say, the two guys in front of you touch, and one runs wide without crashing, but spreads gravel from the trap on the racing line. You were paying attention, even anticipating such a thing, but your line’s been compromised. You make a perfectly reasonable decision to avoid the gravel.

By definition, you’re now on a sub-optimal, slower line. The guy behind you doesn’t change lines. He’s on the faster line so he catches up to you, but hits the gravel and low sides. The moment he entered your peripheral vision you shifted to an even wider line. Another perfectly reasonable decision that allows you to avoid being taken out.

Grip out there seems surprisingly good and with second place now within striking distance, you make the perfectly reasonable decision to roll on the throttle.

But that wider line, out in terra incognita, there’s a big bump. Why would you know? It’s a part of the track you’d never normally ride on. A vicious headshake ensues, but rolling off might just make it worse and you’re so close to second place now that you can literally smell it, so you make the perfectly reasonable decision to stay on the gas and ride it out, which works.

Meanwhile the guy in second, still rattled by his off-track excursion slows very early for the next turn. You make the perfectly reasonable decision to dive under him. (As Max Biaggi* once said, “This is racing, not classical dancing.”) You naturally leave braking to the last split second and… the lever comes all the way back to the knuckles of ring and little fingers. There’s nothing there, because the pads were shaken off the rotors by that tankslapper. 

In an attempt to recover from what’s become a real fucking moment, you make the perfectly reasonable decision to follow the longest straight line you can while simultaneously applying as much rear brake as you dare while pumping the front brake up, which might have worked, but…

As you run across his bow, you collect the guy you just passed and suddenly you’re both doing the old sky-ground-sky-ground-sky-ground thing as your bikes endo through the gravel shedding bodywork.

The life lesson

You can be in a perfectly good situation until some very minor perturbation forces you to make a series of decisions. At that point, even if every decision you make is perfectly reasonable, the result of those decisions may be that your once-perfect situation becomes a Worst. Case. Scenario.

*Tip of the hat to Dave Roper for pointing out that I’d misremembered the source of this great quote.

Good-bye to all that

I would have thought that “Searching for Spadino”, a story I wrote in 2003, was my career highlight. But I guess the real highlight was correcting the record sixteen years later in Columbia Journalism Review.

Listen… Can you hear a faint murmur in the distance? It may be the sound of my far-flung friends scoffing at the idea that I could possibly get a real job. But indeed, that has happened. About three months ago, I started a late (last?) career as a writer at a “Big Data” tech company. For practical purposes, this marks my retirement from motorcycle journalism.

IIRC, the first time I ever got paid for writing about motorcycles was in 1994. I was still working in the advertising industry back then but by 2002 motorcycles had become a de facto full-time job—especially if you count the time I devoted to Riding Man. I returned from Europe to the US in early 2004. Except for about eight ill-fated months on salary at Motorcyclist, I've essentially been a freelancer for 20 years.

By my estimate: several dozen feature stories in print magazines (U.S., Canada, U.K., Belgium, France, Sweden, Norway, Australia;) over 250 Backmarker columns on RoadRacerX.com and about the same number on Motorcycle-USA.com; 100 print columns in Classic Bike, and over the last five years, 130 stories on Common Tread

Taken in the broadest sense (including book sales and movie option fees) writing about motorcycles has accounted for about 75% of my income since 2002. I'm reasonably proud of what I managed to put up as a body of work. I tend to rank the early stuff like the Naked Frenchman story higher than the later stuff, but there've been a few quite good ones—if I do say so myself—in the Common Tread period. I'd consider publishing a second “Best of Backmarker” anthology but the first one only sells a few copies a month, so it's not worth the work it would take to sort/select/re-edit.

When people find out that I used to be an ad agency creative director, they often say, “Oh, like ‘Mad Men’.” I tell them that era had ended before I arrived; I just missed it though there were still a few old white guys around, pining for the old days.

I arrived at Motorcyclist at the end of motorcycle journalism’s heyday, too. I might've made a decent living ten years earlier, but I got there just in time for the web to kill print. Lest you think I’m being overly dramatic: in the mid-’oughts the most I ever earned from a single magazine feature was $2,500 for a story in the UK magazine Bike. Nowadays, I’d make half that for a story in the New York Times. Bike would pay $500, tops.

So I’m trading motorcycle journalism in for a real job.

I tell myself that the last time I had a real full-time job (in the mid-to-late-’90s, at the ad agency portrayed in Riding Man) I also did more quality riding than at any time before or since, because I could afford it. In the anticipation of a predictable income, I’m already entertaining ideas like buying or building some kind of go-kart-track practice bike or finally living out my observed trials fantasy.

If those things happen, I suppose you might read about them on Common Tread or at least on this blog. But I’ll be freelancing as a hobby, not a career. To mark that downshift, I’d like to thank some of the many editors who trusted my story instincts, improved my work, and occasionally saved me from myself: Chris and Laurel, at Road Racer X; Bart at Motorcycle-USA.com; Hugo at Classic Bike and Bike in the U.K.; the late, lamented Bruce Reeve at Cycle Canada; more recently Justin at the Times, Ravi at CJR (he may only have edited one story but it was a doozy,) and—special mention—Lance at Common Tread.

If you’ve been a regular reader and especially if you’ve been buying my books, thank you, too.

Writers write for all kinds of misguided reasons; some seek fame (hah!) or if they’re even more delusional, fortune. Once a writer’s been disabused of those notions, this is what’s left: We write in the hope that some day, we’ll be read. If you’ve been reading lo these 20 years…

Cheers,

Mark

 

In France, things are Fabio-leux

The headline reads, “Always the first” meaning, he’ll always be the first French rider to win the championship in what the caption calls, “the Queen of the classes.”

If you want to read some of the writing I did in France (which I rate as my best stuff) it’s published in, “On Motorcycles: The Best of Backmarker”. Now just $18 from Amazon.

From mid-2002 until early 2004, I lived in France. First in Lille, then Paris. I was grateful for the experience mainly because it disabused me of a long-held (by me) notion; namely, that I would be happier if I lived in France.

I wasn’t.

However, I do have a few fond memories of life there and foremost amongst them was the daily pleasure of picking up L’Equipe at the newsstand and repairing to some cozy cafe to read it — partly for sports news and partly to improve my French.

There’s no North American equivalent to L’Equipe. The name is French for “The Team”. It runs about 24 pp per day. It’s available at every newsstand in the country. Why it’s nothing like any North American paper is, it covers all sports in loving, lavish detail. Totally unlike U.S. sports pages that really don’t even try to cover anything but the “Major Leagues”.

To be clear, L’Equipe obviously lavishes most of its coverage on France’s most popular sports. Their premier soccer league; rugby, which is a bid deal over there; the Tour and other major cycling events like Paris-Roubaix; tennis during the French Open of course.

But they also provide detailed, expert coverage of second- and third- and nth-tier sports. And what impressed me was that when they wrote about sports I knew about; motorcycle racing, weightlifting, shooting, archery. One day, in the course of reading about the French archery championships, I was struck by the description of one archer’s release—this is the moment in archery, similar to achieving a surprise break in shooting—and the word they used to describe her release was “limpid”. This is perfect word that captures a very nuanced sense what was going on there.

What I’m saying is, L’Equipe did not write down for a general audience; every fan of every sport no matter how obscure got to read expert coverage. One of the consequences of this is that French sports fans have much more catholic tastes than North American fans. Ordinary people can get really passionate about judo, or speed-skating. Or MotoGP.

(Let’s face it: In an only a slightly different world, Cam Beaubier might have clinched the championship yesterday. I guess that would have made the sports pages in Sacramento, but it would only rate a photo and caption; at most some very short article pulled off a wire service; an interview in the off-season might follow, in which a baffled local sportswriter would try to convey some sense that Cam was a big deal, somewhere else.)

The people who love motorcycles the most, talk about them the least.

—Patrick Bodden

One of the only French people that I befriended at all was Jacques Bussilet, who was L’Equipe’s Grand Prix motorcycle racing editor for decades, going back to the days of Jarno Saarinen. Frankly, I’m not sure that Jacques even rode motorcycles, but he was erudite, very knowledgable, and very, very connected in that world. (By the time we met he’d retired from L’Equipe so I never read his coverage, but I’ve read several of his very good books. Few English-speaking motorcycle writers compare.)

I was introduced to Jacques by the Franco-American moto-journo Patrick Bodden, who once said something profound to me: “The people who love motorcycles the most, talk about them the least.”

What he was getting at was, if you only think about one thing — no matter what it might be — you don’t have a larger context to put it in. By definition then, it’s less interesting.

Which brings me around to today’s L’Equipe, which devoted the entire front cover to Fabio Quartararo. In L’Equipe, it’s in context. And it’s literally front page news, nationwide. It’d be fun to pick it up, carry it to some cafe, order a coffee and have the waiter comment, out of the blue, about Quartararo’s belle victoire.

Pirsig is dead. He's lucky.

You got a box. Another instantly gratifying piece of shit shipped from China, where it was made in a factory that produces mostly effluent but some products manufactured by children working in such physically but worse, emotionally toxic conditions that little kids with their whole lives ahead of them commit suicide to escape their servitude and now it’s here for your minute of dopamine as you tear open the package and then, crestfallen, realize that it’s exactly the piece of shit you insisted upon by choosing a product that could only be shit at the price you paid but don’t get too down on yourself because you’ll soon throw it out where the wind will carry it from a landfill site into a stream and thence eventually to the Great Pacific Garbage Gyre where it will be firmly out of sight and out of mind for the century it will take to break down into microplastics that just may kill the last wild fish though you’ll be dead by then but in the interim you might wonder why you’re broke and if you do, a big part of it is that you buy this shit you don’t need but frankly you, all of us—even those kids in China—would have been better off if you’d just taken that amount of cash and burned it. But you got a box.

I’ve been thinking about Pirsig. For years when I thought about him, I was usually angry that he’d made me read a 172,000-word rant that’s half a step away from the Unabomber’s manifesto. Yeah, that it’s self-indulgent. But lately I’ve realized how lucky he was to die before Amazon became Walmart on steroids and finally completed the shitification of Life in America.